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TIPS & ADVICE
A Basic Guide to a Cut Throat Shave Print E-mail
 The Real Man's Razor!

The recent interest in male grooming has resulted in some mickey taking from both the media and guys not quite so concerned with their grooming regime. However guys, there is a comeback....ask them if they use a straight razor (otherwise known as a cut throat) for their daily shave! The reply is likely to be a resounding "NO". But chances are they will be impressed if you use one.


Using a cut throat is definitely not for the faint hearted, but with practice and a steady hand it will give you the best shave of your life...as some of you may already be aware.

If you're just starting out with a cut throat, it's best to start off just shaving a small area of your face to start with (your sideburns are probably the easiest) and then using your regular safety or cartridge razor to finish off. This way you can get used to holding the cut throat and a feel for it. Then, with each further shave you can gradually increase the area you shave until you feel more comfortable and confident.




As with all shaving, preparation is most important. Do not skimp on lathering your face. Use a high quality creme and spend at least a minute working it in to your beard; longer if you have time. Use a brush to do this if you have one. Some guys will leave the creme to soften their beard for a couple of minutes and use this time to sharpen their razor with the strop! It is important not to let the creme become too dry. If it does just apply some more. You need a slick surface to help the blade glide.



Okay! Time for the shave. Place the pads of your index and second fingers on the shank, your thumb under the shank and against the shoulder. The handle should be raised vertically between your middle and ring fingers, and your little finger resting on                                                       the inside of the crescent shaped tang.

Stretch the skin with your free hand as taught as is comfortable, but not too tight. Holding the razor at a 30 degree angle to your skin, shave your first stroke evenly in the direction of your beard growth and then a second against the growth. Only two strokes will be required but you can skip the second if you think it is too tricky or don't feel you need it.

As they say, "the angle of the dangle" is the key to a blood free face! Hold the      razor at less than 30 degrees and you're likely to rip the hair out by the root. Hold it at more than 30 degrees and you'll more than likely look like you've been in a fight with Edward Scissorhands! The only areas to which this doesn't apply are the chin and upper lip. Here you should angle the back of the blade a little closer to your skin. With experience you'll develop a technique suited to your skin and face.

Remember to take it slowly to start with, and don't worry if you have to finish your shave with your normal razor.

One thing is for sure, once you have mastered the art of using a cut throat you won't want to go back to using a cartridge or safety razor. You'll get the ultimate in a close shave and the satisfaction of scoring a 10 on the macho scale! Will it impress your wife or girlfriend? Perhaps! Depends how steady your hand is!
   
 
HOW A SHAVING BRUSH IS MADE Print E-mail

How a Shaving Brush is Made

The average shaving brush will contain approximately 14,000 hairs, weighed precisely to fit the securing ring that holds the brush together. The manufacturing process is highly skilled and most of the work is done by hand using traditional tools.

The 'bundle' of hair is combed to remove any hairs not lying straight. The hairs are then placed tip-first into a heavy metal block which has a concave interior to give the distinctive 'dome' shape of a quality brush. The end of the bundle is tied off securely with strong thread and then glued into a ring. This fixes the hairs in the finished shape of the brush.

The base or 'shaft' end of the hairs are sheared off (the tips are never cut as it is the fine tips that give the softness in a brush of true quality).

The clamped bundle is then carefully cemented into the chosen brush handle, creating a luxurious tool that will last for many years.

Our brushes come from Edwin Jagger of Sheffield, England. Renowned for setting  the standard for impeccable male grooming, Edwin Jagger products embodies traditional English style with the benefits and heritage of Sheffield workmanship.


How to look after your shaving brush: be a Razor Sharp Male

A badger hair brush is a natural product that with loving care should last ten to fifteen years. When you get a new brush it is quite natural for a few loose hairs to come away from the brush in the first few weeks; these are shorter hairs that did not quite reach the glue in the base and this should not be a cause for concern.

Wet your brush thoroughly in warm water before use, apply the shaving creme to the tip of your brush or dip it in the shaving creme holder and lather gently using a circular and/or up and down motion; when applying the shaving creme do not apply too much pressure, causing the badger hair to splay.

After shaving, rinse the brush gently but thoroughly in clean water, flick the excess water away and place the brush in a stand with the hair pointing down. If you do not have a stand, leave the brush pointing up rather than horizontal, so that air can get to all the hairs and dry the brush naturally.

Natural hair that is left wet can develop mildew; try to avoid enclosing a wet brush in too small an enclosed space.  If you keep it in the bathroom cabinet ensure that it has sufficient space to dry.  If you shave away from home and keep your shaving brush in a travel tube or kit bag, give it an opportunity to dry as soon as you can.  If your brush becomes affected by mildew or a build-up of soap, soak it in a solution of Borax, which can be obtained from a pharmacy.

It is our opinion that a shaving brush is an essential tool for a man in his grooming cabinet!

 

 
BADGER HAIR BRUSHES Print E-mail

                     Edwin Jagger Traditional English Handmade 

                        Badger Shaving Brushes

Badger Hair has been used for more than two centuries to make the best shaving brushes; in the past it was the preserve of the wealthy, now it is available to all. Badger hair is quality graded according to the appearance and softness of the hairs; the ascending classifications are Best, Super and Silver-tip. The price of a brush will depend on the quality of the hair and the amount of it used in the brush - it is an expensive resource and the highest standards of quality control are used when the hair is sourced.  The hair is cleansed and sterilised to ensure that it is not only clean but performs to meet user expectations.
 

                                                   Why Use Badger Hair?

Badger hair is different to many types of fur - like human hair it absorbs water and it is this characteristic that makes badger hair perfect for shaving brushes.  The lathering process whips hot water, soap and air into a warm foam that cleanses the skin and lubricates the path of the razor.  Water is the key element in a good shave and the more a brush can hold, the better the lather and shave will be.  The fine tips of the hairs help to make a smooth and creamy lather and the exceptional softness of badger hair cleanses the face gently, giving a comfortable and reliable shave.

 

There are three main types of badger hair:

Silver Tip - this is the highest quality of all.  The finely graded and sorted pure badger hair is the softest, rarest and most expensive badger hair; with natural untrimmed silver tips, it is the highest quality available in shaving brushes worldwide.  The pure colouring of this hair is enhanced by careful hand grading and filling. The shape of Edwin Jagger silver tip filled brushes is created by hand.  The long hair from the neck of the animal is ultra soft, flexible and will provide years of luxurious shaving.

Super Badger - this is the finer hair from the back of the badger, it is longer and softer than 'best' badger and, because it is finer, requires more hairs to fill a brush.  This high quality grade of badger hair is only used in hand filled brushes.  Visually, the badger bundle displays a distinctive black band capped with pure white tips and is presented in a natural fan shape, using the natural hair ends to create the shape and softness.  The shape of the Edwin Jagger Super Badger filled brushes is created by hand.  Edwin Jagger do not trim the hairs of their brushes to create the overall badger bundle shape, a time saving method used by some other suppliers.

Best Badger - this is an excellent quality of pure badger hair.  It is normally regarded as the benchmark standard of shaving brush manufacturers.  The hair is harvested from the majority of the pelt, including the belly.  It is generally darker in colour although the colours of individual hairs vary from grey and brown to black.  This quality creates lather far superior to that resulting from the use of a bristle brush.

 
WHAT IS THE POINT OF A BAD SHAVE? Print E-mail

GREAT SHAVE = SMOOTH SKIN + EXFOLIATION*
WOMEN CAN ONLY DREAM OF!

*removal of dead surface skin cells

GREAT SHAVE + FACIAL WASH = FRESHLY EXFOLIATED, CLEAN SKIN
(best preventative against spots & breakouts, normally caused by dead
surface skin cells mixing with excess sebum and blocking pores).

GREAT SHAVE + FACIAL WASH + AFTER SHAVE BALM* &
MOISTURISER** COMBINED = GREAT VISUAL FRONTLINE

*helps cool, refresh & relieve redness,
** restores lost moisture, conditioning the skin and leaves it smooth,
firm and with a protective layer.

Although men-u shave creme can be used without a shaving brush,
the brush makes the difference!

men-u Ultimate Shave/Facial Kit
men-u Ultimate Shave/Facial Kit
Men-u Barbiere shaving brush & stand (black), shave creme, healthy facial wash and facial moisturiser lift with travel bag. (Value £39.80)
Price: £35.75 (including 17.5 % tax)

 
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