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A Basic Guide to a Cut Throat Shave |
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The Real Man's Razor!
The recent interest in male grooming has resulted in some mickey taking from both the media and guys not  quite
so concerned with their grooming regime. However guys, there is a
comeback....ask them if they use a straight razor (otherwise known as a
cut throat) for their daily shave! The reply is likely to be a
resounding "NO". But chances are they will be impressed if you use one.
Using a cut throat is definitely not for the faint hearted, but with practice and a steady hand it will give you the best shave of your life...as some of you may already be aware.
If
you're just starting out with a cut throat, it's best to start off just
shaving a small area of your face to start with (your sideburns are
probably the easiest) and then using your regular safety or cartridge
razor to finish off. This way you can get used to holding the cut
throat and a feel for it. Then, with each further shave you can
gradually increase the area you shave until you feel more comfortable
and confident.
As
with all shaving, preparation is most important. Do not skimp on
lathering your face. Use a high quality creme and spend at least a
minute working it in to your beard; longer if you have time. Use a
brush to do this if you have one. Some guys will leave the creme to
soften their beard for a couple of minutes and use this time to sharpen
their razor with the strop! It is important not to let the creme become
too dry. If it does just apply some more. You need a slick surface to
help the blade glide.
Okay!
Time for the shave. Place the pads of your index and second fingers on
the shank, your thumb under the shank and against the shoulder. The
handle should be raised vertically between your middle and ring
fingers, and your little finger resting on the inside of the crescent
shaped tang.
 Stretch
the skin with your free hand as taught as is comfortable, but not too
tight. Holding the razor at a 30 degree angle to your skin, shave your
first stroke evenly in the direction of your beard growth and then a
second against the growth. Only two strokes will be required but you
can skip the second if you think it is too tricky or don't feel you
need it.
As they say, "the angle of the dangle" is the key to a
blood free face! Hold the razor at less than 30 degrees and you're
likely to rip the hair out by the root. Hold it at more than 30 degrees
and you'll more than likely look like you've been in a fight with
Edward Scissorhands! The only areas to which this doesn't apply are the
chin and upper lip. Here you should angle the back of the blade a
little closer to your skin. With experience you'll develop a technique
suited to your skin and face.
Remember to take it slowly to start with, and don't worry if you have to finish your shave with your normal razor.
One
thing is for sure, once you have mastered the art of using a cut throat
you won't want to go back to using a cartridge or safety razor. You'll
get the ultimate in a close shave and the satisfaction of scoring a 10
on the macho scale! Will it impress your wife or girlfriend? Perhaps!
Depends how steady your hand is!
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TIPS & ADVICE